Farmer's Country

For the last ten days I have stayed away of the mainroads, always riding on lonely backcountry dirtroads, sometimes not more than a jeeptrack. They lead you up fantastic mountain passes and down through colourful canyons, passing extensive bushland and green fields. The farm houses are quiet far apart, many of them abandoned, and traffic is scarce. Some days I barely come across anybody, and just get passed by one or two cars. But you're not alone, everywhere you go, you'll find some sheep. Especially on the grasslands up the mountains they're plenty. 



One late evening I was riding through the "Golden Valley" and starting to look out for a place for the night, spoilt for choice as there were to many great options. Do I climb up that little hill and enjoy the vista? Or should I camp over there under the trees, protected from the wind and allowing me to make a fire! Or right beside one of these windmills, providing me with fresh water? Suddenly I got another possibility, a car had stopped and invited me to spend the night on their farm. Just as well, I could need a proper shower and do some laundry. 



The farm of about sixthousend sheep is managed by Allen and his wife Denise. Some of the stock are mutton sheep and hold for the meat but most are Merino's and once a year need to get sheered. They going to start the next days and I like to witness this interesting event, not knowing much about where my shirts are coming from. The sheep need to get sorted and organized, not an easy task with this dumb creatures. The wool is about ten centimeters long and cut by the old fashion way by some skilled Africans who travel the area for that job. Then it get assorted to quality and pressed into compact bales before send to Port Elisabeth to the auction.




Nuisances

Nowhere in Africa have I seen so many monkeys as here in SA. There's lots of space here and people have other things to eat. It's the opposite, they get fed and as a result become very bold! A grown up Baboon can become pretty big and if baring his teeht quiet terrifying. In particular at public picnic or camping places it's very bad. Near Capetown at some busy tourist hotspots I even saw some guys with uniform declaring theam as special monkey guards. If a Baboon troop happen to pass your camp you better gather all your belongings and move, the peace is over! They'll hang around watching you (always avoiding eye contact, making it difficult to strike them), waiting for an opportunity to steal something. Primarily plastic bags because they know there's something good in it from the supermarket. These bastards even learned how to open zippers!


Baviaankloof

I got told by many people to visit this place. It's beautiful they say. So I went. And it's beautiful. Not just that, it's stunning! The scenery is awesome, you enter through a narrow canyon, climbing mountains and crossing crystal clear streams down in the valleys. There are also leopards, buffalos and black rhinos roaming through the dense bush, although I haven't (unfortunately & fortunately) seen any of them. Nonetheless it was exciting anyway. But somehow they all forgot to tell me it's not allowed to cross the reserve on a bicycle, at least not on your own without a support vehicle. But I managed anyway. By now I am quiet an expert in going to places I can't. And it was definitively worth the hassle, one of the best places I have ridden in Africa.






Wilderness

What a name for a place. I certainly would like to live there. At least I could give it a try, so I send an enquiry through warmshowers to Jake and Claire who run a dairy farm over there, a bit late but luckily it worked out. Actually I intended to spend just a couple nights but the next day it started to rain heavily and after a year through Africa with barely any rain I don't like to go. Besides I am heading towards some promising countryside and I don't want to miss the views in the mist, I enjoy the company far to much and when got the chance to move on didn't take it. Instead I took the chance to explore the local waters by kanu :)





Cape Point

Just after Capetown stretchs a peninsula down southwards ending in a narrow tip. It isn't but feels like the southern most point of Africa. From high up the rocks sends a lighthouse it's light beams across the sea, warning the ships of the infamous Cape of good hope, where violent storms rage and dangerous cliffs hide beneath the water.




Table Mountain

A great part of the fascination of Capetown originates from the impressive panoramic view of Table Mountain. Capetown is one of the few Metropoles in the world where you can get out of the city and into the bush by just a short walk. While I was waiting for my spare parts to arrive, I decided to go for a hike on Table Mountain. After climbing up to the top through the Plattenklip Gorge you arrive on a platform which offers great views down at the city. Also this is the place where the cable car stops and spits out all the lazy tourists. From here runs the Hoerigwaggo Trail all the way down to Cape Point which I am going to follow. The scenery is spectacular and just after a couple hundred meters you have left the crowds behind, and you're all by your own. 




Surly Ogre - Second Edition

While riding I got a lot time to think. Quiet a big part involves my bicycle and how to improve it. There isn't a perfect setup, it always depends where you go! With my old style I had lots of space, what's handy to carry provisions and plenty of water. But now for touring around South Africa I don't need that any more. More important, however, is to loose some weight to improve handling and make climbing easier. There comes the framebag, fitting right into the triangale (best location for balance) and offering some extra storage.




South Africa

After nearly ten months on the bike cycling over 18000km through Africa I finally arrived in Capetown, my final destination I was aiming for all throughout my trip. By the way, it's much nicer than the other way round, heading for Cairo doesn 't seem to appealing to me. Being now here there is no way I'm not going around the country! It's very different to the rest of Africa, especially the scenery and it's nice to see green gras, trees and montains again. Also here are so many friendly people and I got a nice place to stay and get organized for my further travels. Specially my bike is in bad shape and needs some attention. At a cafe in Malawi I met  family from Capetown touring with their huge motor home around Eastern Africa. Like almost every Southafrican I got to known, Jan, the head of the family, likes bikes. That brought me an invitation, just right, because after a long time on the road you need a place where you can have a good rest without thinking about where to sleep und what to eat. Here I found the perfect place, a friendly family und my own little home  - the motor home :)








Skeleton Coast Park

Got stopped at the gate again. It's getting a bit annoying with this "No bikes in the NP" rule, specially in this case where there isn't much of wildlife and above all any predators to be expected. It's very remote and I have to wait for couple hours for a suitable car. Luckily in this part of the world almost every vehicle got some loading space, the chances are therefore pretty good the first car to show up will give you a lift.



In the meantime I start cleaning my dusty bike and to my great surprise find the frame at the chainstay cracked!  Now I understand why two days earlier the disc brake started to grind sleightly more than usual (minimal grinding is not uncommon). I tried to adjust the brake but with no success. By now there arrived my opportunity and I jump on.



Early afternoon we approach the exit gate and my driver asks if I want to get off or better come with him to the next town. It was holding up already two days before I found the crack so I reckon it will do for couple more days and get of the car.  It don't seem to be to bad and the road along the coast is a smooth salt road, comparable to pavement. Back on the bike I soon wished I had stayed on the car. At the Namibian coast a cold und strong wind brought by the Benguela current blows from the southwest which makes the climate nice and cool but riding a torture. For the 250km to the next town it takes me almost four days. 


My destination is already in sight, just fifteen kilometer ahead, suddenly the back of my bike starts to wobble. A quick look down I see my frame broke and I quickly get of the bike before more damage happens. And again I happen to sit on the side of the road with the thumb up. Hopefully for the last time!


Dear Sun

Since Malawi it's getting hotter by every day and now here in Namibia at the end of October it's brutal hot! In Zambia they call it the "Suicide Month". Might be true, without plenty of water you won't make it long. The daily siesta during lunchtime is a big part of the day, lying for hours somewhere in the shade of a tree just reading and drinking. Once I drank seven liters just while resting for five hours. But the hardest point is to carry the water supply of up to 15+ liters. It's a big factor and makes a huge difference to your performance on the bike, especially on soft ground. Still, I like it better hot than cold! Dear Sun, Thank you for shining.